The guys of last summer’s gritstone-climbing-trip teamed up again and spent 3,5 days in Cogne to climb as much frozen water as possible. Located near the city of Aosta, just north of Gran Paradiso, Cogne escaped the „heat wave“ with temperatures up to 15°C which destroyed much of the ice in Tirol. When we arrived on Thursday evening we were thrilled by the perfect conditions: very little snow which means low risk of avalanches and constant temperatures below the freezing point. According to some experienced Cogne-climbers this year’s conditions are above avarage.

We started off with „Cascade de Lillaz“ – a very nice and scenic waterfall with moderate difficulties. In the afternoon we drove down to the avalanche-gallery and climbed the first three pitches of „Parto Gemellare“ (WI 4)

On the second day (29.01.2011) we climbed „E tutto relativo“ (WI 4) which has a very beautiful second pitch up a mighty, free standing column. After rappelling down the route we walked up the ramp which leads to the second pitch of „Pattinaggio artistico“. Unfortunately we had to skip that route because of the traffic ahead of us, so we continued the traverse on the ledge in order to climb „Hard ice in the rock“, further to the right. The traverse is kind of delicate but there are enough pitons to do it safely. We descended via rappelling over the huge overhang through which the famous route „X-Files“ leads.

On the third day (30.01.2011)Team Mark&Mark competed with a dozen of other climbers on the „Cold Couloir“ while Lukas and me climbed „Il candelabro des coyote“ (4+/5) and afterwards the first pitch of „Tuborg“ (4+/5).

On our last day (31.01.2011) we climbed the first two pitches of „Stella Artice“ (5), probably one of the best climbs I have ever led.

As already mentioned above, the conditions were wonderful and since there was so little snow the approaches were very easy and fast.

1 Kommentar zu „Ice climbing in Cogne (January 2011)“