ngg_shortcode_0_placeholderThe guys of last summer’s gritstone climbing trip teamed up again and spent three and a half days in Cogne climbing as much frozen water as possible. Located near the city of Aosta, just north of Gran Paradiso, Cogne escaped the „heat wave“ with temperatures of up to 15 \u00b0C, which destroyed much of the ice in Tirol. When we arrived on Thursday evening, we were thrilled by the perfect conditions: very little snow, which meant a low risk of avalanches and consistently low temperatures below freezing. According to some experienced Cogne climbers, this year’s conditions are above average.<\/p>\n
We started off with „Cascade de Lillaz“ – a very nice and scenic waterfall with moderate difficulties. In the afternoon we drove down to the avalanche gallery and climbed the first three pitches of „Parto Gemellare“ (WI 4).<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_1_placeholder\n
On the second day (29.01.2011), we climbed „E tutto relativo“ (WI 4), which has a beautiful second pitch up a mighty, freestanding column. After rappelling down the route, we walked up the ramp leading to the second pitch of „Pattinaggio artistico“. Unfortunately we had to skip that route because of the traffic ahead of us, so we continued along the ledge to climb „Hard ice in the rock“, further to the right. The traverse is somewhat delicate, but there are enough pitons to do it safely. We descended by rappelling over the huge overhang through which the famous route „X-Files“ leads.<\/p>\n
On the third day (30.01.2011), Team Mark & Mark competed with a dozen other climbers on the „Cold Couloir“ while Lukas and I climbed „Il candelabro des coyote“ (4+\/5) and afterwards the first pitch of „Tuborg“ (4+\/5).<\/p>\n
On our last day (31.01.2011), we climbed the first two pitches of „Stella Artice“ (5), probably one of the best climbs I have ever led.<\/p>\n
As mentioned above, the conditions were wonderful and since there was so little snow, the approaches were very easy and quick.<\/p>\nngg_shortcode_2_placeholder\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
The guys of last summer’s gritstone climbing trip teamed up again and spent three and a half days in Cogne climbing as much frozen water as possible. Located near the city of Aosta, just north of Gran Paradiso, Cogne escaped the „heat wave“ with temperatures of up to 15 \u00b0C, which destroyed much of the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/263"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=263"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/263\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":270,"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/263\/revisions\/270"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=263"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=263"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/higher-ground.at\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=263"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}